Phra Pradaeng Songkran Festival
By Richard Barrow
Sunday 24th April, 2005 | 1186 words | Category: Festivals | 8 feedbacks »

Just when I thought it was safe to wash the car and hang up the wet water gear....! I took the above picture this afternoon in Phra Pradaeng, a district in Western Samut Prakan. No, it wasn't the results of a time warp. For some peculiar reason, the people of Phra Pradaeng, who are mainly the descendents of the Mon people from Burma, decided to celebrate Songkran one week later than the rest of the country!
Traditional Game of Saba
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I first crossed the river in the car ferry last night to enjoy the fun of the fair. As usual, there was plenty of food to sample so I had made sure that I was really hungry before I went. Apart from the Thai food, the main reason I was going to the fair was to witness the traditional game of Saba (see pictures above). It is very hard to explain the rules of this game. All I can say is that it is a kind of courting game. The young men place a small discus on their foot and then have to approach the maiden of their choice. Once they are about five feet away, they flick their foot so that the discus knocks over a token in front of their maiden.
Songkran Parade
This afternoon, I again drove back to Phra Pradaeng, this time to take photographs of the parade and also the traditional practice of releasing birds and fish. I had seen pictures of this beautiful event in the newspapers but this would be my first time of actually going there. Although the parade wasn't due to start until 3.30 p.m., I left home shortly after mid-day. I had already heard that all of the roads along the waterfront were closed in the morning so it would have been impossible for me to cross by car ferry like I did last night. So, I took the expressway into Bangkok and crossed the river on the Rama IX bridge. After leaving the bridge, the first turning on the left took me onto Suksawat Road which leads through Phra Pradaeng.
Straight away I was in a traffic jam of pick-up trucks with Songkran revelers on the back. The going would be a lot slower than I had planned although I still had another two hours. I know I could have crossed the river on a passenger ferry, but I would be entering relatively unknown territory. Although the parade would start by the river, it would end up at Protket Chettharam Temple a fair distance away. This is where they would be releasing the birds and fish and so I wanted to try and position myself near that temple in order to be able to take pictures of the parade as well.
After about 45 minutes of slow crawling I noticed a sign in Thai about a short-cut to Ratburana Road. As this was near my destination I decided to take it. Maybe I should point out at this stage, I am not very familiar with Phra Pradaeng. I was basically following my nose and the crowd. I didn't know how near the temple I would be able to get. I knew I would be very lucky to get all the way. As it was taking so long I was getting worried that I would be stuck in a traffic jam as the parade passed by.
About an hour or so later I had reached as far as I could go. The police had blocked the final 800 metres to the temple. I turned the corner and found myself somewhere to park. I had already resigned myself that eventually I would have to leave the safety of the car. I had come prepared with plastic bags for both my camera and mobile phone. I took a deep breadth and got out of the car. I stepped into complete mayhem. Within seconds I was drenched in water. At least they said "Happy Songkran" in English. Very polite. I kept walking. More water, iced this time. Then some white powder on my face.
Finally I reached the sanctuary of the temple. No waterfights here. I took a look around the temple in order to work out the best place to take pictures later. In one section of the temple, there was a building completely surrounded by water. I recongized this from the newspaper. This is where they would release the birds and fish. I stayed there for a while and then headed back along the main road to a bridge where I waited for the parade with a large group of other people.

At last the parade was in sight. They had turned the corner and they were heading straight for us. I could already see the first float which was beautifully decorated. I knew that in all there would be 20 of these floats taking part in the procession. I imagined that would take quite a bit of time to pass us by.
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On most of the floats there were beautiful young ladies dressed in traditional Mon, or Raman, costume. There were also men who wore a sarong with a round-necked shirt and a colourful sash.
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In-between each float there were marching bands and also more beautiful girls in traditional dress. These ones were carrying bird cages and fish bowls. There were hundreds of them. I presumed all of them would be heading towards the temple in order to make merit by releasing them into the wild.
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If you had read my blog a week or so ago about the origins of Songkran, you would have remembered the story I told about Kabil Maha Phrom who had his head cut off during a wager. He had seven daughters, each one a goddess and representing a day of the week. The winner of Miss Songkran last year can be seen holding the severed head of Kabil Maha Phrom which is meant to bring good luck to all of mankind. As they dismounted from their float, I followed them to the temple. I knew the winner of Miss Songkran for this year would be coming soon and I didn't want to miss the photo opportunity.

And here she is in green. The photographs above and below are the main reason I came today. This is a classic photo which I have seen many times. In the above picture, the winner and runners-up of Miss Songkran are releasing the fish into the pond. In the picture below, you can see the administrators from Phra Pradaeng about to release the birds. A very beautiful scene and I was very glad that I had come. The only thing left for me now was to carefully put away my camera in the plastic bag and then run the gauntlet back to the car. Actually, I didn't run. I just kept walking. I almost made it too. However, right at the last minute, someone poured a large bucket of iced water down my neck! Very nice. I think I will try and come next year. But, next time I will try and park nearer to the temple!

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Tags: mon, songkran
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8 comments
Originally, Saba was a game that young Mons played in order to get a chance of seeing and finding their future wives and husbands.
According to the Mon culture, they were not allowed to date with the opposite sex alone. But they took times during the Songkran’s celebration to play this games in many houses hosted by groups of young women who provided food and drink to the boys and all the audiences of their games. Only single boys and girls (most of them were teenagers) could play this game. It took around 2-3 weeks during Songkran to play this game. So the boys just moved around to many houses during that 2-3 weeks in PP District. Other married people couldn’t paly it. By playing this game, it helped them to meet prospective wives and husbands while people from 14 villagers in Phra Pradang District and their parents could observe them, too.
Previously, the boys will ask the girls e.g. how to cook a particular dish he might like most? While the girls might ask the boys how to build … This were killing questions to check whether he or she would know the practice of that thing and dish and be a good husband or wife who would help look after kids and house. Some boys, who won the game, might ask the girl to show their legs and arms. Please note that there was no ‘topless or singlet those days’. This way the boys could check whether he or she was physically perfect : D
Please understand that the boys and the girls were kept apart and never had a chance to talk, travel or watch movie alone togather like young people do today.
As a result (nearly 200 years ago), there had many married ceremonies following a few weeks or months after Songkran. Don’t ask me why? :D Note that Thai people avoid to have their wedding ceremonies held during November and December. This was changed after PP District was changed to industralised area since 1960s when people began to work in factories and girls can meet boys more freely.
I was hoping you would come in and fill in a few blanks. It was very difficult to work out exactly how the game was played - most Thai people I spoke to didn't really know.
Today Saba game becomes a socio-cultural symbol of the group and not really serves its real purpose (finding future couples). Mons in different provinces may have different rules to play this game and may allow married people to play as well e.g. Bang Gradee District that players will play as a team (all players play at the same time).
In PPD, however, each individual player will take turn to play. There are many rules for this games. In PPD, each village has different numbers of playing styles and performance (or 'tha-len' in Thai); and each tha-len has different rules using different organs to play representings different meanings. For example, Tha 'E-so' (using fingers to move the Saba seed) is used to check whether the player has all the perfect fingers and are clean. Tha 'Yod-kang' (chin-dropping) is used to check eyes, neck and ears of the player. Saba is a seed of a climbing plant. Today, Mons use wooden Saba as it is difficult to find this plant and seed naturally.
As mentioned above, each vilage in PPD has their own rules and tha-lens to play. For example, Baan Songkanon has 7 thalens, Baan Dung has 17 tha-len, Baan Wekaround and Baan Chaing Mai similarly has 12 tha-lens and Baan Saer has 15 tha-lens ... As all the men may take turn toplay in different villages, so they supposed to know all the rules and 'tha-lens' of each village.
In the first period (back around 150-200 years), youngs women prepared Saba play ground (they made their 'Tai-toon' - ground in April to be neatly flat and smooth. You may imagine a Thai traditional house which the wooden floor on the top and dried-muddy ground below (used as a Saba play ground). This ground was naturally dried after the raining season stoped from October - April. Around midnight, the girls would serve food and continue to play until around 3-4am. Hope, this helps.
More details regarding Saba (pp. 54-63), please read my thesis (2538 or 1995) kept at the National and main CU libraries. The other 28 Thai traditions and photos (based Mon culture) are also included in this thesis (401 pages).
Yesterday is my first experience to celebrate songkran festival as i live in malaysia. Did they have any rules while playing water?
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