A few weeks back, I decided that it was finally time to get away from this escapist world and return to ‘myself’ via a silent 10-Day meditation course (the usual amount of time for a decent course). It was to be my first in 3 years but one of many which I have struggled through during all my time in Thailand. While chatting with a good buddy of mine in Bangkok, he advised the same one which he had attended a couple of years ago in Prachinburi Province not too far from the capital. After deciding that was the place for me, I thought it wise to tell minimal folk of my ‘spiritual’ intention as I just didn’t wanted to be bombarded with the usual questions along the lines of ‘Why the heck are you going on a meditation retreat?!’ So, if you are one of those I told a ‘white lie’ too about my location a week or so, then my apologies, but here follows is the truth!
The course I chose was none other than a S.N Goenka 10-Day Meditation Course. In case you haven’t the foggiest to who S.N Goenka is, then let me advise you that he is one of the most internationally renowned Vipassana meditation masters and teachers in modern times. Goenka, a Burmese-Indian in origin, is also famed for running one of the strictest meditation courses the world over. And I was to find out just how tough it was!
Out of the 4 Goenka meditation centers located in Thailand, the one I secured a place on was at Dhamma Kamala in Prachinburi, the original Goenka retreat in the country. So, on the first day, the 30th July, I made my way to the well-known Wat Phra Sri Mahathat in Bangkok and took one of the center’s passenger vans to the place which was to be my silent dwelling for the next week and a half. Arriving at the center 2 hours later, I was well-chuffed to see that my room had a nice semi-comfortable bed instead of a mat on a stone floor which is the norm at meditation retreats at temples. I was also thrilled at the prospect of jam sandwiches for tea time; at temples, again, meditators/monks get nothing in the evening besides the likes of a carton of milk. But, as is usual at most such retreats in Thailand the twice daily meals were to be nothing but pure vegan. Around about 30% of the meditators in attendance were ‘old students’ (ie…. meditators who had done the Geonka course at least once before) and the rest ‘new students’ (ie…. The likes of me who didn’t have a glue what the heck he was getting himself in for)
So, in the early evening of Day 0, I thought that this meditation would be a walk-over ‘piece of cake’ absolutely no problem to survive. I am certain that the other 20 or so foreigners (and about 80 Thais) thought more or less the same. That was of course till Day 1.
After a pathetic first nights sleep (my mind must have been wondering where the heck I was) I was awoken at 4am by the bell. We all made our way to the main hall for 4:30 meditation session. On that first day alone, we were literally forced to sit out an unprecedented 8 hours worth of meditation. And that was sitting meditation! Absolutely no walking meditation whatsoever. I use the word ‘forced’ cause anyone who couldn’t last was kindly asked to leave and go home. This I thought must be the world’s only self-desired prison! The teacher in charge was sat on a podium at the front of the room and did little else but turn on Goenka recordings on how to meditate etc….. She was a decidedly elderly woman and I found out later that she held the honourable title of ThanYing, the highest possible title for a commoner, and to acquire such a title like that you gotta be well-liked by the person who bestows it, the one and only Queen of Thailand. Well, she was well respected by former students who were attending the course (they made up about a third of the meditators) and they always bowed to her three times. An action I had never seen use for a woman before; it is normally used only for high-ranking monks; not even the higher echelons of royalty get such a welcome.
That first day, I am positively sure that every one of us foreigners there were truly suffering, I mean our legs must have been killing all of us. My legs were, and I am even used to sitting on the floor in a half-lotus position at home. The second day was the real test and we were again literally forced to sit in meditation for up to 9 hours! As you can imagine, that kinda workload is just a bit too much for some folk, and by midday of the following day, I guessed that 20% of the meditators had done a runner and fled! And I am not joking! We were soon to learn, however, that this kind of absolute tolerance and determination was all part of Goenka’s technique ie… if you can’t survive the first couple of days then the teachings aren’t gonna do ya much good. As has always been said though, the first 2-3 days of a meditation course are always the hardest.
This kind of retreat doesn’t only expect noble silence (no communication whatsoever ie.. eye-contact etc..) but also absolutely no mobile phone messages, reading or writing, it is pure Vipassana meditation. The only person you are allowed to talk to on Goenka’s courses is the supervisor in charge and only if you have a health problem or forgot your toothpaste etc.. Men and women are also totally segregated. Every evening us foreigners were separated from the Thais in that we had to had to watch Goenka’s discourse for the day and perhaps instructions on the meditation for the following day. We all found Goenka’s video discourses to be great; unlike any other Buddhist/meditation teacher I had heard before, he was petty hilarious and got his messages across in such an easily understandable matter. His daily video was one of the highlights of the day, second only – of course – to meal times.
After an awesome first two days, the vigorous schedule was finally eased on Day 3 and the morning class (4:30-6:30am) was no longer compulsory. Half of us foreign guys did however, still turn up every day – but as for the every single one of the ‘new student’ Thai guys though, they spent the next 7 days getting a lie in. That is because, most of the Thai blokes were real young and were not on the course due their own wise decision, they had been sent there by their parents! This was verified later by one of the Thai guys and the male supervisor. Altogether, the women way out-numbered the men, about 4 to 1 and, in general, they adhered to the schedule much more obediently than us men. That said however, a higher percentage of women did drop out of the course before it ended. If you want an idea on how tough this course really is, I counted a total of around almost 30% of the ‘new student’ females who did not last the ten days.
From the second day on, here is a rough idea of the schedule at Goenka meditation retreats:
(Not Fixed & Varies)
04:00 – 04:30 Get Up & Taka a Shower
04:30 – 06:30 Meditation in the Main Hall (not compulsory)
06:30 – 08:00 Breakfast & Rest
08:00 – 10:00 Group Meditation in Hall (compulsory)
10:00 – 11:00 Meditation in Hall (usually compulsory)
11:00 – 13:00 Lunch & Rest
13:00 – 14:30 Meditation in Hall (not compulsory)
14:30 – 17:00 Meditation in Hall (compulsory)
17:00 – 18:00 Tea-time
18:00 – 19:00 Meditation in Hall (compulsory)
19:00 – 20:20 Goenka Discourse Video
20:30 – 21:00 Meditation in Hall (compulsory)
21:00 – 22:00 Shower & Rest
22:00 Lights Out
As you can see from the above, you are expected to complete a minimum of 7 hours sat-on-yer-bum meditation a day.
Now, after 4 days of this, my legs were totally falling apart and I my recurring groin injury suddenly surfaced again to add even more to the pain. It was at around this time when I seriously wondered whether I would be able to survive the 10 days.
On the evening of the 4th with my groin injury really kicking in (first time in months I had felt it) Goenka informed us that from now on we were expected, for 4 separate hours day, to sit completely still for the entire hour! That is, to not move whatsoever, not even our hands – this is where I thought this course was ‘madness’! Just at that time, however, Goenka taught us a meditation technique based on sensations which miraculously eased the suffering in our joints (I had however, learnt a similar technique on my last meditation retreat 3 years back – but we weren’t allowed to mix any other meditation technique with Goenka’s)
As is usual, again, on meditation retreats, days 5,6 and 7 flowed along all right; and I was beginning to feel at least a little at home. It was around this time though, that I became to get a bit pished-off with the amount noise in our residence. Our rooms were in a wooded landing where you can literally hear everything that goes on in the room next-door. So, if someone slightly slams the door, then that noise reverberates throughout the corridor. This led to my only complaint about the course, as at some times in the day you were expected to do meditation in your room if you didn’t go to the main hall (see above schedule under ‘not compulsory’). What a joke! At least one of the young whipper-snapper young Thais spent all their time in their rooms, instead of supposedly meditating, banging away, slamming their doors and running in and out every 5 minutes. I brought it up with the supervisor and it was then that he admitted that a lot of these guys were only on the course because of their mums.
Getting into the 8th day, and instead of going to sleep at night thinking ‘Buddha Buddha’ it had suddenly changed to ‘Burger Burger’ – I was seriously beginning to count down the hours before my return to civilization! And so, even though the last couple of days went by with me more or less tired of the regime, I was feeling fresh in the head and my meditation was going well. Every thing very much changed on Day 10 when Noble Silence was ended and everyone was allowed to speak again. This offered a pleasing opportunity to get to know the other meditators you had been physically close to but hadn’t even looked in the eye for the past 10 days. As you can imagine however, it did feel a bit freaky finally speaking after that extensive amount of time in silence. After breakfast on Day 11, we boarded the bus and to our relief, were on the way home.
Altogether, the experience was a truly uplifting one and I have been on a high ever since. I would certainly recommended the course but I wouldn’t be too certain of advising the place to someone who had never done any kind of proper meditation before. And for sure, I would only suggest the course to those who feel absolute certain that they are up to it!
As for the technique you learn, I deliberately left the contents out in this blog. That’s to say, if you wanna find out what it’s all about, then it is much better to find out all by yourself!
For more info on Goenka meditation courses see www.dhamma.org
Related Blog: A Meditation Retreat in Thailand
“I counted a total of around almost 30% of the ‘new student’ females who did not last the ten days.”
Could we say then, Stephen, that your mind was not seeking refuge in the Triple Gems 100% of the time you stayed there?
I did this once. A challenging experience that I’m glad to have had; notice the past tense there as I don’t think I’ll ever do it again. Your blog gave me some unpleasant flashbacks of ice-cold showers before the sun comes up . Also of having daydreams about those jam sandwiches in the afternoon, and relishing the ovaltine that came with it.
Anyway, Stephen, good post, and valuable for people who are thinking of doing this. Got me a hankering for a burger now.
Khun Steve, I did one of these almost 10 years ago with a different “master”. Mine was a nun and it was an all female event, I think. I don’t really remember. It was earlier in college summer break.
We had the mat and very skinny futon on top to sleep on. We share the big sleeping hall with everyone. The first night I couldn’t sleep. I was hungry. I cried the second night and wanted to go home. Many others did too and they were adults! It was really a threshold that second day. If you make it through that, the rest was easy.
At walking mediation, for some reasons I would get very dizzy and nauseous. My thought is that is the motion of the crowd…never do well in crowd. But I really don’t know what it was. The advisers thought I was faking it until I ran/walked off heaving and turned quite green a few times after they made me rejoin the walk. So I ended up walking when I can and sit out the rest.
It was a valuable lesson in meditation. I haven’t actually sit and do it in a long time, but I remembered the techniques though. Like muscle memory.
I did a 10 day Goenka course. I never went back a second time, but do recommend it for everyone. It was a good experience.
I have given a serious thought about doing it.
However, a system which does not allow anyone to eat after 12pm
scares me of…..
According to the blog-you can eat on the course after midday.
Hi Khun Don, thanzs for your leads. However, do you happen to know of any temple that would offer more than 2 meals daily and do offer atleast 3 days course. I am in sales and could only do the course over the weekend.
Thanzs.
Please forgive me but i beg to differ.
i am sometime quite puzzled why there is such a need to starve the body until midday during meditation retreat? I thot Lord Buddha teaches the middle path. Isn’t it quite extreme for such an regime? Our body needs proper nutrient to maintain balance and peace. How can one meditate when the mind is constantly thinking of food? Depriving it from its basic needs reminds me of Lord Buddha in his quest to gain enlightenment nearly starve himself to death until Sujata came to his rescue with food. He then realised that it is unnecessary to starve to the extreme. He regained his health by practicing the right way until he reached his enlightenment in nirvana. I believe that fasting once or twice a month is good for the body but not to the extent of near starvation for days.
While it is unhealthy to eat junky foods, it is also necessary to eat basic proper meals regularly in order for the mind to concentrate on other important things. I feel that it is better for us to starve our mind from unhealthy thoughts than to starve our body from food.
For more readership on a permanent future basis i copied some comments above from the Forums.
Again, thanks Noel for recommending the center. And Oakmonster for her re-enactment of all those years back!
Clashfan: The best place for you looks like Wat Mahathat in Bangkok near Sanam Luang for short courses – Google this “Wat Mahathat Bangkok Meditation” for info.
Rainbow721: I think it’s a little full-on to use the word ‘starve’! It really goes like: our body usually needs 2 proper meals and one light meal a day to work properly. However, when you are on a meditation retreat you don’t need so much food as your body doesn’t need it, ie…you aren’t exactly wasting too many calories sat around! When you feel hungry in the late afternoon on a med retreat, your body is asking for food cause it is used to it, not cause it needs it – that is where ‘self-control’ comes in. It’s like an alcoholic feeling the urge for a drink. That’s to say, not everything we urge for is good for us.
Monks too, only eat twice a day for the above reasons.
Oh yes…one more good reason for not eating too much on a med course is due to drowsiness. After eating a decent sized meal the last thing you wanna do is meditate as you will feel like falling asleep! I felt this a few times but since the Blog above is already a big one, i left it out.
I wouldn’t worry too much about not having a meal in the evening, your mind and body very soon gets used to going without. What i felt more of an urge for was a decent meaty meal instead of repititious veggies.
Yep. The first few days having 2 meals were quite hard. But the body does adjust to what is needed. After the first few days, your body adjusted to the routine of meditation and the calorie intact, it seems. Once I was adjusted to that, I didn’t feel hungry any more.
With my program, we had a light snack of a carton of soy milk and banana when we first woke up for the morning session at 5 a.m. or something that early. Then we had proper breakfast around 8, lunch at noon, and we had another snack before bed time.
Also, you may have 2 real meals but they didn’t stop you from going for seconds or anything if you really need the food.
I agreed with Sarathi. I really appreciated having gone to one, but to go again, I’m not sure I want to. But I might do it for my mom down the road. I did it for her then too, come to think of that.
Goenka’s course is all about sitting. This is where the tough part is. In contrast, Mahasi Sayadaw style intertwines sitting with walking.
Thanissaro Bhikkhu of Wat Metta in California said that ‘intensive retreats are not sustainable’. They are great for lay people who want to see fast results. If you have one month, perhaps a not-so-intensive retreat in one of the forest monastery is more suitable.
I went to a 10 days silent retreat in Chaya, near Suratthanni and I loved it, helped me stop smoking as well… Suang Mok (the monastery) is a fantastic place to practice it, they gave me all instruction you need as well.
Later on while staying on Samui on holidays I learned that the same people organises 5 day retreats as well. Will try next time.
On the resort I stayed (Kamalaya Koh Samui) they give some instruction as well so I could keep up my practice.
Now I am back home struggling to continue with it on my own.
Cheers for your post
A.
I’ve done a few 10 day Vipassana retreats – it is fantastic. Don’t get put off if you found the first one hard – I did too. It gets much easier when you go back again as you are not spending all your time wondering what comes next, you learn how to balance your mind, and go, and the results are wonderful! My whole life has changed. I now do a retreat every year and find I feel so recharged and energised. My relationships have improved, as has my enjoyment of life. It takes hard work and practice but the benefit is definitely there! I have even volunteered on courses and you get so much from helping others, developing compassion and learning how to apply the technique in daily life! PS You get fruit in the evenings on your first course and if someone is sick, pregnant, elderly or for medical reasons they get dinner. As you are sitting all day, you don’t need the food you normally get. Try it and see!
Just finished a meditation course at Karuma Meditation Center in Phuket….the most insightful, peaceful experience of my life. Great food, instructions in English by a former Western monk, great people to sit and meditate with. If you are considering going for a retreat i highly recommend them – http://www.meditate-thailand.com
“Hard it is to train the mind, which goes where it likes and does what it wants. But a trained mind brings health and happiness. The wise can direct their thoughts, subtle and elusive, wherever they choose: a trained mind brings health and happiness.” – the Buddha
Meditation is hard in the beginning but for every step one takes on the path there are benefits. Serving was the most fulfilling experience of my life.
Read about my Vipassana meditation experiences (of S.N. Goenka’s tradition) on my blog: walkthepath.wordpress.com
Hi,
I’m looking to do a retreat in early December for up to 10 days. Can anyone recommend a good place to retreat (unfortunately I arrive in Bangkok on Dec 1 so will miss out on being able to go to Wat Suan Mokkh).
I’m happy to go to a Goenka centre (is any of them better than others)
Or to a retreat with good teaching but still a strict retreat.
Thanks for your help
Thanks Steve for a good commentary on the retreat. However having done 6 of those retreats and most of them in the same place Dhamma Kamala I would like to correct some errors.. Nobody is ever asked to leave these retreats. the volunteers working there for free (old students) do everything they can to get you thru the 10 days. Of course there are drop outs but in all the courses I have sat there have never been more than a few persons leaving prematurely, maybe 1 -2 %, not the 30% you are talking about. If you get problems with your back or legs you can request extra pillows and back support in most places.
the main point of this technique is persistence and keeping on doing what you do without interruption, that is how results are achieved and thats why meditators are asked to sit for long hours. Also the mandatory one hour sitting is 3 times/day, not 4 times. No one is “forced” to sit still or sit more than one hour without rest, in fact Goenka says a short rest every hour is important, however you do it, by walking around a bit or just sitting and stretching your legs. One missunderstanding is that just because some old students at the front of the room sit for very long times without moving; everyone is expected to do the same, this is not correct and one must remember these are meditators with many years of this behind them.
Does anyone knows where and how do I find info abouT 5 day VIPASSANA on Koh samui, I can’t find any info about it on the internet
Thank you
Hi Olya:
Neighbouring Koh Phangan is the place to go for a Vipassana meditation retreat. Google it.
Thank you very much,
BUT, I am in Koh Phangan right now and I have been googling it for 2 days now. I know for sure theres one 5 day vipassana retreat on Koh Samui,that starts around 21 or 22 but can’t find it. I can not do 10 days, because I am leaving Thainland.
So if you have any exact info please let me know
Thank you very much
Pretty good post, and helpful comments. I am considering a retreat here in Thailand, but want more information.
Why do people say it is so difficult? Just hard to sit for a long time? Or is it the not talking part? How exactly does that make things difficult? Is it more of a mental struggle or physical? Why is it so hard to go without mobile phone messages, reading, writing, etc. for 10 days? Do you get bored? Lonely? Am I going to want to join some cult afterward?
Why would you want to put yourself through such a difficult situation? What are all the benefits. Jane, you mentioned some, but where exactly did you go where you got this? How exactly did these benefits come about?
What can one expect during the long meditation sessions in terms of mental process? In other words what goes through your head as you gain these benefits. It doesn’t seem to smart to just pick a meditation center to go to for 10 days without knowing too much about what you should be looking for and about the center itself beforehand, right?
I have been to 4 retreats, all in Australia. There once you sign in, you are not allowed to leave until you finish the whole course. Wonder why it is different in Thailand.
The fear of not having dinner is much, much worse than the actual experience. Those who fear should give it a try — it is a good way to practice non-greed.
I really interesting to join this, if possibale i want to join in the period of 3rd, – 5th. June. Please advise how can i join. Thank you very much
Without food after 12pm is not a big deal. Do not think about food. You will survive with only water. I was not hungry when I was a Buddhist monk.